Look for simple solution first

My 2003 Jetta had a new injection pump installed and a new timing belt. My friend who did the work took apart the old injection pump and it was rebuilt prior to my buying the car and was rebuilt incorrectly causing it to eventually fail. I got the car running again and then began to have decrease power driving on grease and black smoke from the tailpipe. We looked at all the complicated things like the timing, fuel temp and fuel flow and couldn't discover the problem. Eventually it dawned on me that the car was acting like it was vapor locked and I did install check valves in the system as the valves that control the system leak small amounts of fuel and I was worried about cross contamination. I removed the check valve on the supply line and checked my connections and the car runs great! It is easy to assume a problem is due to something complicated like timing or a bad pump, when in reality it was a $30 part that wasn't critical for the operation of the car.

Transfer Pump

The last piece of the puzzle was to get a good gear pump that I could use to pump my oil form the clean barrel to cars and storage containers. I searched everywhere on the internet and decided on the OP2000F WASTE OIL FILTRATION PUMP from Plant Drive as it was the best value for what I wanted. This pump will work in cold weather and has a filter to protect the pump and give my one last bit of filtration before I add it to my car.
http://www.plantdrive.com//index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18&products_id=75

My centrifuge project

I now have three cars running on grease, my 2006 Golf, my 2003 Jetta and a 1992 Jetta that I purchased from a friend that had 150,000 miles and was converted to run on grease with a grease car system. I did one modification and added a Vegtherm electric heater from Plantdrive as the grease car system does not have that. So, I need lots of oil! I purchased a centrifuge from Simple Centrifuge and thought that wold do the trick. No more filters and mess. We set it up and it worked great, except we had no way to control the flow of oil to the centrifuge. We tried to set a bucket above the centrifuge with a ball valve, but as the oil fed the centrifuge the pressure decreased and we had to constantly adjust the flow rate. The folks at simple Centrifuge suggested we try a peristaltic pump and sent me one to try out. It worked great and the only problem is you get about 7-8 day run on the tubing before it splits and spills oil all over the floor. To avoid that I set it above my heating barrel and when it splits the oil simply flows into the barrel it came from. I ran it 8 days and produced 150 gallons of clean oil. Pan tested it and no water. Great! So I needed to get a pump. I contacted the distributer of the Mity Flex 913 that I was using provided by Simple Centrifuge and called them. I called Comeau Technique and spoke to Richard Weber. We talked on the phone for 2 hours, he answered all my questions and had a wealth of knowledge about the Mity flex and the proper hose to use in the pump. I post a picture of my set up with centrifuge and the Mity Flex.
http://www.mityflexpump.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=862_864_944&products_id=3148

Solar coolant circulator, works great!

Installed a solar coolant circulator in my coolant system and am getting coolant to heat the system faster than I ever imagined. I tried plugging the car in and turned on the circulator and actually took off from home immediately on grease. this means I can get longer driver time on grease and less on diesel! I plan to install one on my Jetta as well.

Discovered why coolant wasn't circulating

I finally got coolant circulating and my Hotfox is heating up as it should. I had thought I had air trapped in my coolant line and that was causing the coolant to not circulate well. It was that but more. My kit came with plastic T's that tap into my 3/4 inch heater hoses and T off to my system with a 3/8 inch nipple. I removed both T's and discovered that the plastic had softened and was deformed by the hose clamps. I also checked the 3/4 inch heater hose and found that it was bent slightly restricting flow. To correst tis I built T's with brass using a 3/4 inch brass T and two 3/4 inch nipples and one 3/8 inch nipple. When I installed this in the heater line I found that it was rather large and wanted to bend the hose even more than the plastic T. I went o Auto zone and purchased some stock 3/4 inch heater hose with some preformed bends that allowed me to make the connections and not restrict the flow of coolant. Now I have my system running and no restricted coolant. I hit 100 degrees at 1 mile vs 3 and switch over around 3-4 miles rather than 8 miles. Chris

Continue to deal with air lock!

I haven't posted for a long time and my conversion is still functioning but I have two problems. I am getting air trapped in my coolant line and can't seem to figure out where it is coming from. I tried swapping out a few fittings and installed a bleeder valve to free the system of trapped air. It works for a while then the air comes back. What this means for me is that my car will not switch over as fast as I would like, 5-7 miles of driving rather than 1-2 miles. I think I found a solution on the Plantdrive web site and that was to purchase a 12 volt coolant circulator that will circulate the coolant and get the car to heat up faster. I can plug my car in at night and the circulator will keep the system hot at night, and push any trapped air out to the coolant overflow. When I get it I will post some pictures. Another problem is Marty and I discovered is that the valves we use (Hydroforce three way) allow small amounts of fuel to cross contaminate. Thus I get small amounts of diesel in my svo tank and worse small amounts of svo in my diesel tank. This isn't a problem in California, but is the Northeast it is hugh. I began to have problems with starting and pulled some diesel out of my diesel tank and discovered the svo in my tank. The solution was to get from Craig at Plantdrive three check valves that are one way and keep this from happening. I wouldn't install a system without the check valves, especially if you live in a cold climate. I have over 60,000 miles driving my cars on svo. Chris

Done!

I finished the install and spent a lot of time on the wiring. It was very complicated as the process involves numerous relays, fuses and there is a small onboard computer that controls the system What is left is to program the computer with my purge cycles and get my dash back in place. I hope you enjoyed following this install. Thanks, Chris